Ukusuka ku-Tik Tok Shop kuya ku-Netflix Thenga umqondo wokuthi ungachofoza ukuze uthenge lokho obona osaziwayo bakho obathandayo ngakolunye uhlangothi wenze imfashini yafinyeleleka kakhulu kunangaphambili, kodwa ngakolunye, yavula iminyango yezinga lokufaneleka eliqhuba isiko lokusebenzisa ngokweqile elinomthelela omkhulu kwezemvelo.
Uyemukelwa enkathini yedijithali, lapho ubuchwepheshe buguqule indlela esisebenzisana ngayo nomhlaba wangaphandle, okuhlanganisa nendlela esithenga ngayo. Abathengi manje bajabulela amazinga angcono angakaze abonwe, aphequlule, akhethe, futhi athenge izinto ngokuchofoza okumbalwa, noma nini nanoma kuphi.
Ngemuva kokubuka isizini yakamuva ye U-Emily eParis, ungase ulingeke ukuthi uthenge i-chic Pierre Cadault crewneck ngokuqondile kusukela embukisweni. Futhi ungakwazi ngokuchofoza okulula. Lokhu “kufinyelela kalula” kufaka kahle ukuthi ulwazi lokuthenga ngedijithali lukhuthaza kanjani isiko lokusebenzisa ngokweqile, ikakhulukazi embonini yezemfashini. Ngamapulatifomu afana nesitolo seTikTok, imakethe ye-Facebook, kanye ne-LTK ethola ukuthandwa, ngisho nezinkampani ezingezona ezemfashini ziyangena kulo mkhuba. Awudingi ngisho nokufaka imininingwane yekhadi lakho ngenxa yobuhlakani obuyi-Apple Pay. Ukwanelisa ngokushesha sekunencazelo entsha ngokuphelele.
Umthelela womnotho olula ekusetshenzisweni kwemfashini
UDkt Sarah Gray, umhlaziyi oholayo ovela ku-NGO WRAP yomhlaba wonke yezemvelo, uveza ukuthi ukukhiqizwa kwemfashini kuyadlondlobala futhi uxwayisa ngokuthi zonke izinyathelo ezinhle ezithathiwe kuze kube manje ukuze kuncishiswe indawo ezungezile embonini yezingubo zase-UK “ziyakhanselwa” ngenxa yokwenyuka ngo-13% komthamo wezindwangu ezikhiqizwa futhi ezithengiswayo.
Pho kwenzekani futhi ngani?
U-Neil Saunders, umhlaziyi wezitolo we-GlobalData, uchaza ukuthi amabhrendi asebenzisa zonke izinhlobo zamaqhinga ukuze aqhubekisele ukuthengwa kwempahla engalindelekile, njengamaphromoshini akhethekile kanye namaqoqo esikhathi esilinganiselwe adala umuzwa wokushoda. Ehlanganiswe nokwehla kweqoqo elivamile, ukukhangisa nokubekwa kwemikhiqizo kwamasu, lawa maqhinga enza kube lula kubathengi ukuthenga, ekugcineni aqhubekisele phambili ukusetshenziswa.
Khonamanjalo, uDkt Gray udonsela ukunaka emthelela omubi wokukhiqiza nokusetshenziswa ngokweqile: “Amazinga aphezulu okukhiqiza asho ukuthi amanzi ezindwangu zethu zendwangu anyuke ngo-8%, afinyelela ku-3.1 billion m³ okungamanzi anele ukuhlinzeka ngaphezu kwengxenye yabantu emhlabeni (53%) ngamanzi okuphuza nsuku zonke unyaka wonke. Ngokufanayo, ukwanda kokukhiqizwa kuphinde kwehlise ukuncishiswa kwekhabhoni kwangempela kwaba ngama-2%. Lokho kuwumphumela wokukhiqiza ngokweqile nokusebenzisa ngokweqile.”
Kodwa-ke, futhi ubheka ukuthenga okulula njengethuba elikhulu hhayi lemikhiqizo kuphela, kodwa namapulatifomu okuthengisa kabusha. Uphakamisa ukuthi kusetshenziswe ukuthenga okunethezeka “kokujwayela” ukuthenga izinto ezithandwa ngaphambili, ekhuthaza abantu okungenzeka ukuthi abazange bayicabangele le nketho ngaphambili ukuthi bacabange kabanzi ngomthelela wemvelo wokuthenga kwabo. Konke kuncike ekuphenduleni indaba.
Ukunqanda ukukhiqizwa ngokweqile: ingabe imboni iyafuna ngempela?
I-WRAP yokugcina Textiles 2030 Umbiko Wonyaka Wenqubekelaphambili uveze ukuthi izinhlobo zezimpahla zokugqoka ezithintekayo esivumelwaneni sokuzithandela sezemvelo zinciphise umthelela wekhabhoni wezindwangu ngo-12% namanzi ngo-4% ithani ngalinye phakathi kuka-2019 no-2022. UDkt Gray uthi lokhu kwehliswa “okuhlaba umxhwele” kudalwe ukusimama okuthuthukisiwe ekuklanyweni nasekukhiqizeni, kanye nokwanda kokusetshenziswa kabusha nokugaywa kabusha kwezingubo.
Kodwa-ke, uxwayisa ngokuthi ukusetshenziswa ngokweqile kukhansela lokhu kuthuthukiswa: “Singakwazi ukuhlanza ukukhiqizwa, kodwa uma siqhubeka nokuthenga kakhulu kusho ukuthi awekho ukuncipha komthelela wemvelo, empeleni, maningi amathuba okuthi anyuke!”
Ngokusho kwakhe, abadlali abahlukene embonini yezemfashini basebenzisa amaqhinga ahlukene ngokusekelwe kumamodeli abo ebhizinisi. Abanye bahlose ukuheha abathengi abafuna izingubo zekhwalithi ephezulu, ezingaphelelwa isikhathi, kuyilapho abanye begxila ekwandiseni umthamo wokukhiqiza ngamamajini enzuzo amancane ngento ngayinye. Nakuba, amanye amabhrendi athuthukisa izinqubo zomnotho eziyindilinga, ngokuhlukahluka okuningi kulezi zihloko.
Ngakolunye uhlangothi, uSaunders uphikisa ngokuthi imboni yezemfashini ayifuni ukumisa ukusetshenziswa ngokweqile: “Iningi lezitolo nemikhiqizo lifuna ukukhulisa imali engenayo nomthamo, alifuni ukukunqanda. Kunzima futhi ukuchaza ukuthi kuyini ukusetshenziswa ngokweqile. Uma abathengi befuna ukuthenga izinto, izinkampani aziboni njengengxenye yomsebenzi wabo ukunqanda leso sifiso.”
Esikhundleni salokho, uveza ukuthi imikhiqizo igxile kakhulu ekukhiqizeni ngokweqile, lapho kwenziwa khona imikhiqizo eyeqile bese kudingeka ukuthi ithengiswe iphele noma ibhujiswe, kube nomthelela enzuzweni. Ukugwema lokhu, uSaunders uthi, imikhiqizo iqapha kakhulu isidingo.
Iqhaza lokuqwashisa abathengi
UDkt Gray ubheka ukuqwashisa kwabathengi kanye nemfundo kubaluleke kakhulu, ephawula ukuthi indlela imikhiqizo ebekwe ngayo futhi imakethwa ngayo inomthelela emikhubeni yokuthenga kanye nendlela abantu abanakekela ngayo izinto zabo.
Kodwa-ke, uphinde aveze ukuthi ukuhlonza inkinga kuyisinyathelo sokuqala futhi akufani nokuba nesixazululo. Unxusa izinkampani ukuthi zibe nesibindi ngokwanele ukuze ziqhubeke zithuthukisa futhi zabelane ngezinqubo ezingcono kakhulu, zisebenza ngokubambisana ukuze kulethe ushintsho oluhle: “Sidinga ukutshalwa kwezimali ezisombululweni zomnotho eziyindilinga. Futhi kubadlali abangafuni ukuzinikela ngendlela efanele oguqukweni oluhle, kungenzeka ukuthi imigomo eqinile iyona kuphela impendulo.”
U-Maeve Galvin, umqondisi wenqubomgomo nemikhankaso yomhlaba wonke we-Fashion Revolution, naye ugcizelela indima ebalulekile yokuqwashisa nokufundisa ekusizeni abathengi benze izinqumo ezinolwazi futhi baqonde umthelela wokuthenga kwabo.
“Kumele bazi ukuthi bayavota ngakho konke ukuthenga abakwenzayo, hhayi ngemfashini kuphela kodwa kuyo yonke imikhuba edlayo. Sonke singaqaphela kakhulu ukukhetha esikwenzayo njengabathengi futhi siqiniseke ukuthi sithenga izinto nezingubo ezimbalwa kodwa ezingcono, sizinakekele ukuze siqiniseke ukuthi zihlala. Into esimeme kakhulu yilena esesikuwodilophu yakho.”
UGalvin weluleka abathengi ukuthi bahlolisise izimangalo ezenziwe izinkampani ezinkulu futhi baziphendulele.
Khonamanjalo, uSaunders uphawula ukuthi nakuba abantu bengase babe nokukhathazeka kwangempela mayelana nokusetshenziswa ngokweqile kanye nokusimama, bambalwa kakhulu abalandela lokhu ngezenzo ezibonakalayo. Ukholelwa ukuthi abantu bavame ukushukunyiswa yizinto ezinobugovu kakhulu njengokulondolozwa kwezimali komuntu kunokucatshangelwa kwemvelo.
Yini engenziwa imboni yezemfashini?
UGalvin ucace bha uma kuziwa endabeni yokubamba noma yiliphi iqembu elilodwa elibhekene nenkinga yemboni yezemfashini yokusetshenziswa ngokweqile nokukhiqiza ngokweqile: “Sidinga kakhulu ukushintsha i-ecosystem yemfashini ngemithethonqubo kunokuthembela ekushintsheni komkhiqizo ngamunye.”
Ucabanga ukuthi abathengi nabo baneqhaza okufanele balibambe ngokuphakamisa amazwi abo kanye nokumela imithetho “eqinile” embonini. "Sekuyisikhathi eside, imboni yezemfashini ihambe ngokungalawulwa futhi manje ekugcineni iqala ukushintsha ezindaweni ezifana ne-EU kodwa sidinga ukuqinisekisa ukuthi umthethonqubo ungaletha izinguquko esizidingayo kubasebenzi kanye nemvelo," uyanezela.
Isiqubulo senkathi entsha, njengoba uGalvin ekubeka ngokufanelekile, “sikhiqiza kancane futhi sikhiqize kangcono.” Ngokusho kwakhe, kufanele kugxilwe ekwandiseni imijikelezo yokuphila komkhiqizo kanye nokuguqukela emfashinini enensayo kunemikhuba yokusetshenziswa kwemfashini ngokushesha. Ngaphezu kokwenza izingubo zihlale isikhathi eside, imboni yezemfashini idinga ukwenza i-decarbonise ngesivinini esisheshayo.
UGalvin uqhubeka eluleka abakhi bemfashini ukuthi basebenzise izinqubo zomnotho eziyindilinga, njengokusebenzisa izindlela zokukhiqiza ezinobulungiswa neziphephile, basebenzise izinqubo ezisimeme kulo lonke uchungechunge lokuhlinzeka—kusuka ekusetshenzisweni kwamandla avuselelekayo kuye emiculweni yezinto eziphilayo—kanye nokunciphisa kokubili inani nesivinini sokukhiqiza.
Uyaphetha: “Ukwenza izinto obala mayelana nendlela abazenza ngayo izingubo zabo, ziyini izindleko zezenhlalo nezemvelo zokukhiqizwa kwazo, kanye nomthamo wokukhiqizwa kwazo, nokusabalalisa izibopho zabo, izinhloso zabo, nenqubekela phambili emikhubeni eqhubekayo kuyindawo ekahle yokuqala.”
Umthombo ovela Isitayela Nje
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