E-Afrika imvunulo ayiyona nje ingubo kodwa iveza amasiko, amagugu kanye nobuwena. Izingubo zokugqoka zase-Afrika ezimibalabala nezinhle, ezinamaphethini azo anomsindo, imibala egqamile kanye nokusikeka nokubukeka okuyinkimbinkimbi, ziye zahlaba umxhwele abantu emhlabeni wonke. Embonini yemfashini yanamuhla esheshayo, izingubo zokugqoka zase-Afrika ziye zadlula inqubo yokumunca amasiko amadala nezinto ezikhathini zanamuhla. Umphumela uba ukuhlangana kwamasiko nezikhathi ezihlukene, okuyenza ibe nemibala eminingi futhi ibe yinhle nakakhulu.
Lapha, sizohlola ithonya elijulile lezingubo zokugqoka zase-Afrika, izizathu ezenza zaduma kangaka, ukuthi lezi zici ezimbili zahlanganiswa kanjani ukuze kusungulwe izitayela ezihlukahlukene, izindwangu ezenziwe ngazo, indlela eziye zajwayelana ngayo nezwe lanamuhla, izindlela zokuzilungisa - konke lokhu nokunye okwengeziwe njengoba sidabula izwe lezingubo zase-Afrika.
Okuqukethwe:
1. Ukubaluleka kwamasiko kwezingubo zokugqoka zase-Afrika
2. Izitayela ezihlukahlukene kanye nokuhlukahluka kwesifunda
3. Izindwangu kanye nezindwangu ezingutsheni zase-Afrika
4. Izinguquko zesimanje kanye nomthelela womhlaba wonke
5. Amathiphu esitayela kanye nezikhathi zezingubo zokugqoka zase-Afrika
Ukubaluleka kwamasiko kwezingubo zokugqoka zase-Afrika
Izingubo zase-Afrika zimelela ingxenye ebalulekile yamagugu amasiko ezwekazi. Futhi nakuba ziwuhlobo lwezingubo zokugqoka, ziwulimi futhi, indlela yokudlulisela ulwazi mayelana nomuntu ozigqokile ezinganciki emazwini akhulunywayo: isimo somuntu emphakathini, isizwe sakubo nendawo adabuka kuyo, noma isenzakalo sokuphila. Emasikweni amaningi ase-Afrika, izitayela ezithile, imibala namaphethini kugqokwa amalungu esizwe noma isifunda esithile kuphela, noma ngesikhathi esithile empilweni yomuntu.
Umbala uze uba nokubaluleka kwamasiko kubantu base-Akan baseGhana, njengalapho begqoka indwangu ye-Kente eyingxenye ebalulekile yokuphila kwabo. Njengemiklamo yendwangu ewubukhazikhazi evela kwamanye amasiko, iphethini ngayinye ye-Kente kanye nenhlanganisela yayo yombala inencazelo, ngokuvamile isaga noma inganekwane yomlando, ebonisa umehluko phakathi kwemiklamo yaseGhana neminye yaseNtshonalanga Afrika. Indwangu yodaka (i-bogolanfini) yase-Mali, okwamanje, iyiphethini ependiwe yemiklamo enesibindi neyejometri eyakhiwe ngamasu abo okudayi ahlukile. Imigqa yayo evelele kanye nezinhloso zixoxa izindaba zezinkolelo zamasiko nezindinganiso zomphakathi.
Lezi zingubo nazo zigqokwa kwezinye, izikhathi eziphawulekayo, izikhathi. Ngokwesibonelo, izingubo zomshado zivame ukuba nombala okhethekile noma iphethini edlulisela incazelo ethile. Kweminye imiphakathi, izingubo zomakoti zingase zibe nobuhlalu obuyinkimbinkimbi noma umsebenzi ofekethisiwe, okungaba amahora amaningi omsebenzi owenziwa izingcweti zendawo ukuze uqedelwe. Lokhu kungenye nje indlela ukugqoka okusiza ngayo amasiko ase-Afrika ukuthi adlulisele amagugu awo kusuka kwesinye isizukulwane kuya kwesinye.
Izitayela ezihlukahlukene nokuhlukahluka kwesifunda
'Izingubo zokugqoka zase-Afrika' yigama elibanzi lezingubo zabesifazane e-Afrika, elihlanganisa izitayela ezihlukahlukene kanye ne-silhouette. Kusukela kuzitayela zokugqoka ezifana ne-boubous yaseNtshonalanga Afrika kanye nezingubo ze-kitenge ezihlotshisiwe zaseMpumalanga Afrika, kuya ezinhlobonhlobo zendwangu kanye ne-fibre, izitayela zokugqoka ezwenikazi zibonakala ngesimo sezulu sendawo, izindlela zokuphila kanye nomthelela wamasiko.
'Imvunulo yesizwe' yabesifazane eNigeria i-iro ne-buba: iro, isiketi esigoqiwe; i-buba, ibhulawuzi elixegayo, eligqokwa ezinhlobonhlobo eziningi futhi linothayi ekhanda wendwangu, eyaziwa ngokuthi i-gele (engagoqwa kahle ibe imigoqo yezakhiwo ezimangalisayo). E-Ethiopia, ingubo yomdabu yabesifazane iyingubo ende kakotini emhlophe, eyaziwa ngokuthi i-habesha kemis, ngezinye izikhathi efekethisiwe kakhulu emqaleni, ehlombe nasemphethweni.
Ingubo yendwangu kaShweshwe evela eNingizimu Afrika noma eLesotho. Isithombe sika-Lewis Blackwell/Panos se-FAOShweshwe, indwangu enephethini evela eNingizimu Afrika noma eLesotho, eyadayiswa ekuqaleni izifiki zaseJalimane ngekhulu le-19, isihlotshaniswa ne-Afrika kangangokuthi manje isibonakala njenge-Afrika, nabantu abavame ukuyigqoka njengengubo yonke, futhi bayenze ngokwezifiso imishado nezinye izingubo ezisemthethweni. Ngakho-ke, ingubo evela ezinhlobonhlobo zezifunda, kusukela ekudaleni kwabantu abaphansi abafuna ukuthatha okuthile kwenye indawo futhi bakuguqule kube okuthile okufanele abantu bakubo.
Izindwangu kanye nezindwangu ezingutsheni zezingubo zase-Afrika
Njengoba ziningi njengezitayela ngokwazo, izindwangu ezisetshenziselwa izingubo zase-Afrika zihlukahlukene ngokulinganayo futhi zibalulekile. Inhloso yokusebenzisa izindwangu zendabuko yisizathu esiyinhloko sokuthi kungani lezi zingubo ziyiqiniso futhi zinenani elijulile lamasiko. Indwangu ethandwa kakhulu esetshenziswa ezingutsheni zase-Afrika i-ankara (ebizwa nangokuthi i-Dutch wax print noma i-African wax print). Nakuba le ndwangu inomlando ophikisanayo ngenxa yabakhiqizi bayo baseYurophu, isibe uphawu oluqinile lwemfashini yase-Afrika, eyaziswa ngamaphethini ayo athakazelisayo nemibala ekhanyayo.
Enye i-kente, indwangu yejiyometri egqamile futhi enemibalabala eyalukwa ngokwesiko eGhana. I-Kente ithatha igama layo egameni lesi-Akan elithi kenten, elisho ukuluka ubhasikidi. Iphethini ngayinye yendwangu ye-kente inegama nencazelo, futhi inemigqa eyinkimbinkimbi elukiwe eyakhiwe kusetshenziswa amakhono namathuluzi akhethekile, adluliselwa ezizukulwaneni ngezizukulwane. ENigeria, indwangu enhle edayiwe nge-indigo ebizwa ngokuthi i-adire nayo ikhiqizwa ngamasu okumelana nokudaya.
kule minyaka eyishumi edlule, kube khona ukunyakaza kwezingubo zokuvuselela nokugcina izindwangu zomdabu zase-Afrika. Ngokwesibonelo, i-aso oke eyalukwa ngesandla evela eNigeria, isanda kunikezwa abaklami bemfashini besimanje ukuze benze imiklamo yokugqoka. Le mélange ebalulekile yakudala kanye nentsha ilondoloza amasu amasiko, isekela ama-artisan endawo futhi ikhuthaza imfashini esimeme.
Izinguquko zesimanje kanye nomthelela womhlaba wonke
Kube nokuthambekela kwezingubo zomdabu ezigqokweni zase-Afrika ezijwayelwa ezesimanjemanje, ezihambisana nokukhuphuka kwezindlela zempilo zomhlaba. Ukwenziwa kwesimanjemanje kwemfashini yase-Afrika kulethe ukwanda kwabaklami base-Afrika abahumusha kabusha izinhlobo zezingubo zendabuko. Lokhu kufake izinto zase-Afrika kumasilhouette asesitayeleni futhi kwenza izingubo zokugqoka zase-Afrika zamukeleke kubabukeli abaningi kuyilapho zisenomthelela wamasiko.
Umkhuba ojabulisa kakhulu ukuxubana kwemibhalo yase-Afrika nezingubo zesitayela saseNtshonalanga. Abaqambi sebeqala ukusebenzisa izindwangu ze-ankara ukwenza yonke into kusukela ekugqokeni kwehhovisi ngesitayela esihlanganisiwe kuya ezimpahleni zakusihlwa zobude obuphansi. Kuyindlela yokuletha izingubo zase-Afrika ekhabetheni elisebenzayo, ukwenza ukubukeka kube kwesimanjemanje. Kuphinde kube nokuthakaselwayo okukhulayo kumfashini wezimiso zokuziphatha kanye nesimeme lapho abaklami abathile begxile ezintweni ezingezona ezemvelo ezitshalwa endaweni futhi ezikhiqizwa ngendlela yokuziphatha, ngezinye izikhathi zilandela imihlahlandlela yohwebo olungenzeleli.
Bethonywe izingubo zokugqoka zase-Afrika, izindlu eziningi zabaklami nabaklami bamazwe ngamazwe baye bahlanganisa izindwangu zase-Afrika nezitayela zokugqoka emaqoqweni abo. Namuhla, imfashini yase-Afrika isizuze ukuhlonishwa emhlabeni wonke nabaqambi base-Afrika abathatha isikhundla sabo esiteji semfashini yomhlaba wonke. Izingubo zokugqoka zase-Afrika azisagqokwa kuphela emicimbini yamasiko noma nemiphakathi ethile. Izingubo zokugqoka zase-Afrika zithole indawo esiteji semfashini yomhlaba.
Amathiphu esitayela kanye nezikhathi zezingubo zokugqoka zase-Afrika
Isibonelo, ukuguquguquka kwezingubo zokugqoka zase-Afrika kuzenza zifaneleke ukuvakasha okulula, umsebenzi, nezikhathi ezisemthethweni. Ngokugqokwa okuvamile, i-shift dress eyenziwe ngendwangu ye-ankara futhi ebhangqiwe nezimbadada eziyisicaba kanye nezinsiza ezincane yenza ingubo yosuku enethezekile nesitayela. I-blazer nezicathulo ezivaliwe zengeza okusemthethweni kule ngubo yeshifu ukuze igqoke ehhovisi.
Izitayela eziyinkimbinkimbi kakhulu zingase zifaneleke kakhulu emicimbini esemthethweni njengomshado, noma umgubho womcimbi omkhulu wamasiko: ingubo yobude obugcwele ngendwangu efekethisiwe ecebile ingaba nomthelela omkhulu. Futhi, kubalulekile ukucabangela umongo - uhlobo lomcimbi oya kuwo kanye nekhodi yawo yokugqoka ehlobene. Izesekeli zibalulekile ekuqiniseni lokhu kubukeka - imigexo yobuhlalu bendabuko, amabhengela ensimbi noma ukugoqa ikhanda okumibalabala.
Ngezingubo zokugqoka zase-Afrika, kufanele uqaphele ngokulinganisela phakathi kokuphrinta, i-embroidery kanye nezesekeli lapho wenza isitayela. Uma inokuphrinta okumibalabala noma i-embroidery eyinkimbinkimbi, izesekeli kufanele zigcinwe zilula ukuze ingubo ikhulume kakhulu. Ngokuphambene, uma kuyingubo yombala oqinile ongenalutho, ungakwazi ukwengeza ubucwebe besitatimende noma ukugoqa ikhanda ngephethini. Mina ngokwami ngingasho ukuthi indlela enhle yokuqala ukwenza isitayela izingubo zokugqoka zase-Afrika uma umusha kulesi sitayela ngamaphrinti acashile noma ukusikeka kwesimanje.
Okokugcina, khumbula ukuthi ukuzethemba kuyinsizakalo yakho engcono kakhulu. Uma ugqoka izingubo ezenziwe ngezingubo zase-Afrika, awugcini nje ngokuhambisana nezitayela noma ujoyina i-bandwagon, uthuthukisa amasiko futhi uziveze. Gcwelisa ngemibala egqamile, imidwebo egqamile nokunotha kwamasiko, futhi uzigqoke ngokuziqhenya.
Isiphetho
Izingubo zokugqoka zase-Afrika ziyinhlanganisela enhle yesiko kanye nesimanjemanje, indlela ephelele yokuhlanganisa amagugu amasiko engutsheni yemfashini. Kusukela encazelweni yamasiko ecebile kuya ezinhlobonhlobo eziningi zezitayela kanye nekhono lokuzivumelanisa nezimo zesimanje, lezi zingubo ziyaqhubeka zijabulisa futhi zikhuthaza. Sibonile ukuthi izingubo zase-Afrika azizona nje izingubo nje; futhi ziyizindlela zokuxoxa izindaba, ukuveza ubuwena nokugcina amasiko. Noma ngabe uthanda ubujamo obugqamile noma imiklamo emihle, ubuciko obuhle noma umlando ojulile, amathuba okuqamba kanye nokuvezwa komuntu siqu kwezingubo zokugqoka zase-Afrika sekuvuthiwe ukuthi ungakhethwa.
