Ilebula yemfashini ezimele I-The Vampire's Wife isole imakethe enkulu ngokuvalwa kwayo kwakamuva futhi amanye amabhrendi asaqhubeka nokusho izinkinga ezithe xaxa emiphumeleni yawo yezezimali, ngakho-ke ingabe sekuyisikhathi sokuthi izinkampani zezimpahla zicabange ukutshala imali kumthengi oqondile kuphela?
Ibhrendi ezimele ezinze e-UK I-Vampire's Wife iyekile ukuhweba “ngokushesha” ngenxa “yesiyaluyalu emakethe yezitolo ezinkulu”.
Yasungulwa ngo-2014, i-The Vampire's Wife yafaka izingubo zayo ku-Selfridges, Harrods and Harvey Nichols kanye namasayithi aku-inthanethi i-Net-a-Porter, Matches kanye ne-Farfetch. Ngo-2020, umkhiqizo wethula ukusebenzisana okulinganiselwe nomthengisi waseSweden u-H&M (osesithombeni).
Kodwa-ke, ngoJuni 2023 i-HM Revenue & Customs (HMRC) yase-UK yafaka isicelo sokuvala inkampani ngenxa yezikweletu ezingakhokhiwe, eyabuye yazibuyisela emuva yathi isibuyele enzuzweni ngemuva kwalolu bhubhane.
Enye inkinga yavela ngoMashi 2024 lapho iFrasers Group ibeka indawo yezingubo zikanokusho Ukufanisa ekuphathweni.
UFrasers uthenge umthengisi ezinyangeni ezintathu ezedlule, kodwa wathi naphezu kokusekelwa kwakhe "uqhubekile nokulahlekelwa kwezinto ezibonakalayo".
Ngaleso sikhathi, umhlaziyi wezimpahla zeGlobalData, u-Alice Price, uthe isinqumo esisheshayo saphakamisa ukuthi abakwaFrasers "babukele phansi izinga lokutshalwa kwezimali nesikhathi esidingekayo" ukuze baguqule ibhizinisi le-Matches.
“Nakuba iFrasers Group iphumelele ukuqondisa umthengisi owubukhazikhazi iFlannels emuva enzuzweni ngemuva kokuyithola ngo-2017, ubungcweti be-inthanethi be-Matches bebungaletha amaFrasers izinselelo ezingajwayelekile ebengeke zikwazi ukuzixazulula kalula, ngenxa yokuthi iningi lephothifoliyo yayo iziteshi eziningi,” kuchaza uPrice.
“Ubudlelwano babahlinzeki nabo buqale ukuba muncu ngaphansi kobunikazi beFrasers, kubikwa ukuthi inkakha yemfashini ibifuna izaphulelo ezinkulu, kuyilapho amanye amabhrendi abika izinkokhelo ezidlulelwe yisikhathi, zaphendukela ekunqanyulweni kwezinkontileka.”
Iphephandaba lase-UK i-Standard libike ukuthi i-The Vampire's Wife wayekweleta u-£32,250 ($41,203) kuma-Matches, futhi ukuwa komthengisi kungenzeka kudale ukushoda kuma-oda azayo alindelwe.
Ingabe i-wholesale iyingozi enkulu yemikhiqizo yemfashini emincane?
Umhlaziyi wezitolo ze-GlobalData u-Neil Saunders uthe izinkinga ezitolo ezinkulu ziwudaba oluthile lwemikhiqizo emincane ethembele kulawa mashaneli ukukhulisa umthamo nokuthengisa kwawo.
“Ngeshwa, iziteshi eziningi zalawa ma-wholesale zisendaweni ebuthaka njengoba isidingo silinganisa. Ezinye izimakethe zikanokusho ziwile futhi ukudayisela abanye abathengisi nge-wholesale kunzima kakhulu njengoba kunokuxwayiswa kokuthi kungakanani ukusungula okumele uzibophezele kukho nokuthi yiziphi izinhlobo zokuthenga. Lokhu kuguquguquka kunomthelela omkhulu enkampanini encane efana neThe Vampire's Wife,” etshela uJust Style.
Indawo yezomnotho ebanzi nayo ikhombisa ukukhohlisa kumabhrendi amaningi emfashini aphambili. U-Price uthe izimakethe zikanokusho njengamanje zithintwa ukwehla okubanzi kwesidingo sokunethezeka, ikakhulukazi eYurophu nase-US, njengoba abathengi abafisa ukubusa ekusetshenzisweni kwemali phakathi nenkinga yezindleko zokuphila.
“Imikhiqizo yabaklami nayo isiqalile ukunciphisa ukuthembela kwabo kozakwethu abakhulu, esikhundleni salokho batshala imali emabhizinisini abo aqondana nabathengi ukuze bathole ukulawula okukhulu kwezithombe zabo zomkhiqizo futhi basekele ukuyenga kwabo okukhethekile,” kuchaza uPrice. "Lokhu kudale ukuthi izimakethe zibhekane nobunzima bokutholwa kwamakhasimende, njengoba ama-Matches aphendukela ekwehliseni isaphulelo ukuze ahehe ukuthengisa, okube nomthelela emikhawulweni yayo kanye nemibono yabathengi."
U-Yoox Net-a-Porter, ongumnikazi wezitolo zikanokusho eziku-inthanethi u-Yoox, Net-a-Porter kanye noMnu Porter, babike ukulahlekelwa kwama-euro ayizigidi ezingu-541 onyakeni kuya ku-March 2023. Umdayisi osezinze e-UK u-Farfetch naye uhlangabezane nesiyaluyalu ezinyangeni ezisanda kwedlula, iThe Telegraph ithi ibhekane nesicelo sokuhlenga ngoJanuwari 2024 ngaphambi kwesivumelwano sokuhlenga.
UPrice wachaza: “Le nhlanhla isiphetho sezinto ezimbalwa, okuhlanganisa nokubuyela kwabathengi ezitolo ngemva kweCovid, abadlali abasezingeni eliphezulu abanciphisa ukuthembela kwabo ezitolo ezinkulu ukuze babeke phambili ukutshalwa kwezimali eziteshini zabo eziqonde ngqo kubathengi kanye nokwehla kwezinga lemakethe kanokusho.”
Wengeze ngokuthi ukwanda kokugxila ekuthengisweni okuqondile kuya kubathengi kukhulise lo mkhuba. "Ngemuva kokuthi ubhubhane selugqugquzele abadlali bakanokusho ukuthi batshale imali enkulu eziphakamisweni zabo zedijithali, njengoba abaningi bebekade benokungena okuphansi kakhulu kwe-inthanethi, lokhu kugxilwe nakho manje sekuqhubekile, kuhoxisa imali ezimakethe njengoba abathengi bethenga ngqo kumawebhusayithi emikhiqizo yokunethezeka," engeza.
Lezi zinto kungenzeka zenze amabhrendi amancane abe sengozini enkulu emakethe kanokusho.
“Yize i-The Vampire's Wife izobe idayisa ngqo osaziwayo namanye amakhasimende asezingeni eliphezulu, idinga ukuhambisana nemali etholwayo ukuze imodeli yebhizinisi isebenze,” kuchaza uSaunders.
Uveze ukuthi ukuzama ukushintsha imali elahlekile evela emalini etholwayo ngokuzama ukukhulisa ibhizinisi layo eliqondile kungafakazela ukuthi kubiza kakhulu futhi kudla isikhathi kumkhiqizo.
“Ibhrendi enkulu enokufinyelela okwengeziwe namandla omlilo ingase ikwazi ukufeza lokhu, kodwa akulula kangako ngelebula ye-niche,” engeza.
Umthelela wobuthakathaka obuthe xaxa kumabhrendi emfashini amakhulu
Akuwona nje ama-niche, amabhrendi amancane noma okunethezeka athintwa imakethe yezitolo ebuthakathaka.
Ngasekuqaleni kwale nyanga (May) i-VF Corp yezimpahla zokugqoka yase-US, ephethe izinhlobo zezicathulo i-Vans, i-Dickies ne-Timberland kanye nohlobo lwezimpahla zokusebenza I-North Face iveze ukuthi i-Americas isalokhu "isifunda sayo esenza kabi kakhulu" ngo-FY24. Umhlaziyi wezimpahla zeGlobalData uLouise Deglise-Favre uchaze ukuthi imali engenayo yehle ngo-18% yaya ku-$5.5bn, obekuwunyaka wesibili olandelanayo wokwehla esifundeni.
Ugcizelele ukuthi lokhu kungenxa yokwethembela kwayo kakhulu kozakwethu “abanciphisa ama-oda abo phakathi nokwehla kwesidingo”.
Inkampani yemfashini yase-UK iSuperdry isanda kumemezela uhlelo lwayo lokuhlela kabusha olwandisiwe kanye nokuvalwa kwezitolo ukuze kugwenywe ukukhokhwa, kodwa ivumile ukuthi inethemba lokuthi lolu hlelo luzokwenza ibhizinisi layo libe lula ukuze ligxile kozakwethu ababalulekile abangaletha imizila engabizi kakhulu emakethe.
Ngo-Ephreli umkhiqizo wezicathulo zase-UK uDkt. Martens uthe bekulindeleke okungenani u-£15m ($19.16m) ezindlekweni ngemuva kokwenyuka kwezindawo zokugcina izinto eziwumphumela wobuthakathaka obuthe xaxa ebhizinisini labo lase-US.
Umthombo ovela Isitayela Nje
Umshwana wokuzihlangula: Ulwazi olubekwe ngenhla luhlinzekwa yi-just-style.com ngaphandle kwe-Cooig.com. I-Cooig.com ayenzi izethulo namawaranti mayelana nekhwalithi nokuthembeka komdayisi nemikhiqizo.
